Days 12/13: Rain, Rhum, and a Fort

Hello All! It's been more than 24 hours since my last post, so I know that everyone is anxiously awaiting the next installment. ;)

Yesterday, the weather did not cooperate: it rained on and off throughout the day and stayed generally cloudy and gray.  I headed out to Sainte Anne, a nearby town with arguably the most beautiful beaches in Guadeloupe, to check out a youth reading festival.  Surprise! The festival actually starts tomorrow- the website had listed the incorrect information.  I will most likely return to Sainte Anne sometime in the next week or so to check out the festival.  I am especially excited for author meet and greets.  (Technically, these events are designed for those well under the age of 21, but research calls!). 

Church in Ste Anne-- note dreary weather

The center of Ste. Anne

Memorial to WWI casualties-- French/ European flags make an intriguing photo bomb

Instead, I read some back issues of the local paper in the library, headed over to the "Artisanal Village" (Guadeloupe's version of somewhat tacky tourist shops.  I did not find many truly "artisanal" things), and drank espresso while reading Simone de Beauvoir in a beachside cafe (thanks Uncle Jim and Aunt Sue! I radiated cultural superiority) until it was time to head over to a book signing/ presentation.  The book used documents from old trials in the Caribbean to give voices to slaves who were, for whatever reason, brought to court.  Interestingly, slaves could actually bring suit against their master.  This kind of dents the whole "you are an object not a person" argument, but highlights the complexities of life under the slave regime.  All in all, a very interesting discussion with some very knowledgeable people! I grabbed some free fruit and juice from the receiption and then headed home. 

Which brings us to today: the fateful day in which I finally embark upon my long discussed trip to Basse Terre to see Fort Louis Delgres.  (I think I have intended to go to Basse Terre 2 or 3 times now!!)  The day did not disappoint! In the morning, I checked out a distillerie not far from the Fort.  Distillerie Bologne produces rhum using exclusively Guadeloupean components: the water, sugar cane, materials, etc. all come from the region.  Mostly, I didn't want to drive an hour to see one sight so I figured why not learn about rhum!

The entrance to the boutique and visitors center

Sugar cane fields!

The actual distillerie: you can see all the equipment

Sugar cane being pulverized

Big wheel!

Vats of Rhum and French People

 The tour guide knew everything about rhum production: we discussed the history of the site as well as the details of rhum production.  I learned a lot! And tried some award winning rhum: all in all, not a bad place to spend the morning.

Around 1 pm, I finished up and drove over to Fort Louis Delgres. As I discussed in a previous post, Delgres was a mulatre (half black-half white) commander who fought against Napolean's order to restore the slave regime in the colonies.  After realizing he had no chance of victory, he and his men decided to explode the fort, yelling "Live Free or Die".   He seems to be a sort of local hero: an underdog who stood up for justice and human dignity as well as what he believed in.  Statues of him litter the streets, some of which bear his name, and he appears to play a major role in Guadeloupe's collective memory of this dark period.

Despite its tragic history, the fort is breathtaking:

Just one of the way too many pictures I took here

 Situated on a cliff overlooking the water, it offers picturesque views of the surroundings.  But the ruins (and some restored buildings) themselves do not disappoint either: the stonework is marvelous and actually enhances the natural beauty of the area. 

Game of Thrones- esque, no?

View from the Fort

At one point, Delgres and his men escaped the fort through this tunnel.

Another beautiful view

Cemetary

And we are back to Game of Thrones (theme song is still stuck in my head)

I followed the map of the site and learned that the Fort was used before Delgres, during conflicts such as the French and Indian War, and today has been restored for use as a volcano observatory.  (That big green mountain is actually an active volcano called "la Soufriere".  It last erupted in 1976 causing mass panic.  Scientists from around the world installed themselves in the old poudriere (gun powder storage unit? I know there's a word for this in Engish but I do not know what) to stay protected as they tracked the volcano's movements. 

I loved the memorial to Delgres' sacrifice: basically it's a large head surrounded by lots of rocks (which evoke the men who also chose to sacrifice themselves rather than return to slavery).

 Very cool and artsy, no?

Finally, the site boasts a small museum relating to Delgres and the War of 1802: when good old Napoleon decided to restore slavery in Guadeloupe.  Shockingly, the recently freed slaves did not agree with this decision, so Napoleon sent over troops to enforce his decision.  A horrifically brutal war ensued, resulting in Delgres' sacrifice as well as the lives of hundreds of other Guadeloupeans who fought for liberty.  After France claimed its victory, a terrible repression ensued in which many officals enacted revenge on those who fought for the rebels.  The museum recounts these stories with the hopes of using the Fort as both a place of memory and a symbol of resistance. 

I enjoyed the museum, and it gave me some great ideas for further research.  (As I left the lady said "wow you've been here a long time!"-- a testament to my enjoyment of the site). 

Tomorrow's activities remain up in the air: I may head back over to Sainte Anne for the reading festival (and to check out the beach...), drive to a different town (maybe another distillerie or museum), or go to a Gwoka dance competition tomorrow night ("gwoka" refers to the traditional music, song, and dance of Guadeloupe).  The world is my oyster! For tonight, I will leave you with another beautiful picture from Ft. Delgres: